
Water Heater Repair & Replacement

Water Heater Replacement
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Common Water Heater Problems

Start with the power supply: check the isolator switch and the trip switch at your DB box, because a tripped circuit is the single most common cause and costs nothing to rule out. If power is reaching the unit and you still have no heat, the heating element or thermostat has most likely failed. On storage heaters both are replaceable. On instant heaters the heating coil is often integrated into the unit, which is why replacement can work out cheaper than repair. We check the power side first either way, rather than quoting you for parts you may not need.
Where the water is coming from changes the answer entirely. A small drip from the pressure relief valve is normal in modest amounts and usually just needs the valve replaced. Water coming from the tank body itself means internal corrosion, and that unit needs replacing, because it will only get worse. Water at the pipe connections is often a fitting that needs resealing, which is a quick and inexpensive fix. We identify which of the three you have before recommending anything.
If you have already swapped the shower head and nothing improved, weak hot water flow is usually caused by sediment build-up in the tank, a partially blocked inlet, or a restricted supply pipe. This one genuinely cannot be diagnosed honestly over the phone and needs an on-site check. Separately, if your hot water runs rust-coloured, that points to tank corrosion or a spent sacrificial anode. Caught early, the anode is a cheap replacement. Left alone, you end up replacing the tank.
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